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Through this blog, we aim to give insight into our industry.

Shades by Pella
Shades by Pella

When you invest in new door and window installations, the finishing touches matter just as much as the glass and frames. One of the most common design choices homeowners face is deciding between shades and blinds. Each offers unique benefits in terms of style, privacy, light control, and maintenance. At Hawks Doors and Windows, our Riverside-based contractors work closely with homeowners to make sure every detail—from windows to window coverings—fits their vision and lifestyle.


Bamboo Shades
Bamboo Shades


The Pros of Shades

1. Elegant, Soft Appearance Shades create a clean and modern aesthetic, with fabric options ranging from light-filtering sheers to bold blackout designs.

2. Improved Energy Efficiency. Cellular and insulated shades work hand-in-hand with energy-efficient windows, reducing heat transfer and lowering energy costs.

3. Enhanced PrivacyFabric shades provide complete coverage, giving you privacy without sacrificing natural light.

Cons of Shades:

  • Fabric can collect dust and may require more cleaning.

  • Less durable in homes with pets or kids compared to blinds.


Wool Blinds
Wool Blinds

The Pros of Blinds

1. Superior Light Control blinds allow you to tilt slats for just the right amount of sunlight, making them versatile for any room.

2. Long-Lasting Durability. Available in wood, faux wood, vinyl, or aluminum, blinds hold up well in high-use spaces.

3. Easy Cleaning. Dusting blinds is simple—just a quick wipe-down compared to fabric shade maintenance.

Cons of Blinds:

  • They provide a more practical look, which may not feel as cozy as shades.

  • Slats can bend or break if not carefully handled.


Which Should You Choose?

There’s no one-size-fits-all answer. Shades are ideal for homeowners looking for comfort and design variety, while blinds are best for durability and flexibility. Many homeowners in Riverside, Corona, and Moreno Valley choose a mix—blinds for kitchens and bathrooms, shades for bedrooms and living areas.


Why Work With Local Contractors?

At Hawks Doors and Windows, our trusted contractors don’t just handle door and window installations—we also provide guidance on the finishing details that elevate your home. Whether you’re upgrading with a retrofit or planning a new construction project, we’re here to help.

👉 Call Hawks Doors and Windows today for a free consultation and discover how we can make your home more stylish, efficient, and comfortable.

 
 
 

Laminated Glass
Laminated Glass

When it comes to upgrading your windows, homeowners often prioritize energy efficiency first. But there’s another powerful option that can bring safety, comfort, and peace of mind to your home: laminated windows.

Laminated glass has long been used in car windshields, but it’s becoming increasingly popular in residential settings—and for good reason. Let’s explore what laminated windows are and why they might be the perfect fit for your home.


What Are Laminated Windows?

Laminated windows are made of two or more layers of glass bonded together with a durable interlayer, usually made of polyvinyl butyral (PVB). This interlayer holds the glass in place if it breaks, preventing dangerous shards from scattering.

Think of it as a sandwich of glass and plastic—strong, secure, and designed to perform in ways traditional single-pane or standard double-pane windows cannot.


UV Protection
UV Protection

The Benefits of Laminated Windows

1. Enhanced Safety & Security

  • Break-in resistance: Laminated glass is significantly harder to shatter, acting as a deterrent to burglars.

  • Shatter protection: Even if the glass cracks, the interlayer keeps it intact, reducing the risk of injury from sharp fragments.

This makes laminated windows an excellent choice for entry points, ground-floor windows, or large glass doors.


2. Superior Noise Reduction

The PVB interlayer also acts as a sound barrier, absorbing and dampening outside noise.

  • Great for homes near busy roads, airports, train tracks, or loud neighborhoods.

  • Provides a quieter, more peaceful indoor environment.


3. UV Protection

Laminated windows block up to 99% of harmful UV rays, protecting your home’s:

  • Hardwood floors from fading

  • Furniture and upholstery from discoloration

  • Artwork, rugs, and other valuables from sun damage

This helps preserve the beauty of your interior for years.


4. Storm & Impact Resistance

In areas prone to high winds, heavy storms, or earthquakes, laminated windows provide an added layer of protection. The interlayer keeps glass intact even under strong impact, reducing the chance of dangerous breakage and protecting the home’s envelope from exposure to wind and water.


5. Energy Efficiency & Comfort

While laminated glass isn’t the same as insulated glass units (IGUs) with argon gas, it can be combined with low-E coatings and double-pane designs to boost energy efficiency. This means you can enjoy both:

  • Lower heating and cooling costs

  • More consistent indoor temperatures year-round


Energy Efficiency
Energy Efficiency

Are Laminated Windows Right for You?

Consider laminated windows if you:

  • Value safety and security for your family

  • Live in a busy or noisy area

  • Want to protect interiors from fading

  • Reside in a storm-prone region

  • Are you upgrading to a high-end or long-term investment home

While laminated windows typically cost more than standard glass, the benefits—especially in terms of safety, comfort, and property protection—often outweigh the initial investment.


Final Thought

Laminated windows combine the best of modern glass technology with peace of mind that’s hard to put a price on. Whether your top priority is home security, noise reduction, UV protection, or storm safety, laminated windows are a versatile upgrade that adds lasting value to your home.

 
 
 

Updated: Oct 1

Anderson French Doors
Anderson French Doors

Replacing doors and windows is one of the highest-ROI upgrades you can make—but how you replace them matters. Homeowners usually choose between retrofit (a.k.a. “insert,” “pocket,” or “flush-fin” for windows) and new construction (nail-fin) installation. Below is a clear, accurate breakdown to help you pick the right path for your home and budget.

Quick Definitions

Retrofit (Insert/Pocket/Flush-Fin for Windows)

  • What it is: A new unit is installed within the existing frame and opening. Exterior siding/stucco and interior drywall stay largely undisturbed.

  • Where it fits best: When the existing frame is sound, square, and dry—no rot, termites, or water damage.

  • Common on: Stucco homes (flush-fin/z-bar windows that cover the old frame from the exterior) and wood or vinyl siding homes (insert windows set from the interior with stops).

New Construction (Nail-Fin)

  • What it is: The old unit (including the frame) is removed down to the rough opening. The new unit attaches to the studs via a nail fin and is integrated with the weather-resistive barrier (WRB) using flashing and a sill pan.

  • Where it fits best: Remodels, additions, or new builds, or anytime the old frame is damaged, out of square, or you’re changing size/location.

Doors 101:Slab-only replacement (retrofit-like): Keep your existing jamb/threshold; swap the door slab. Prehung replacement (full-frame): New door and jamb go into the existing opening (often with exterior brickmould); less wall disruption than nail-fin, more than slab-only. New-construction door (nail-fin): Best when walls are open or you’re reframing/changing size.

Pella Sliding Patio Door
Pella Slinding Patio Door

Pros & Cons at a Glance

Retrofit

Pros

  • Typically lower cost and faster per opening

  • Minimal disruption to stucco/siding, paint, and interior finishes

  • Great for preserving existing trim and aesthetics

  • High-performance glass options are still available (low-E, argon, laminated, etc.)

Cons

  • Relies on the condition and squareness of the existing frame

  • Slight reduction in glass area (frame-inside-a-frame)

  • If the old frame leaks/has rot, problems can persist unseen

  • Limited ability to change sizes or move openings


New Construction

Pros

  • Best water management: proper WRB integration, pan flashing, and air sealing

  • Opportunity to resize or relocate openings

  • Restores the rough opening—good for structural and rot repairs

  • Can maximize glass area since there’s no insert frame

Cons

  • Usually higher cost (more labor/materials)

  • More disruption: stucco/siding and interior drywall/trim repairs

  • Longer project duration per opening


Performance & Energy Efficiency

  • Glass performance (U-factor, SHGC, visible transmittance) comes from the window/door unit itself; both retrofit and new construction can deliver top-tier ratings if you choose quality products.

  • Air and water management depend heavily on installation. New construction makes it easier to integrate the unit with flashing, WRB, and a sill pan—often yielding superior long-term weather resistance.

  • Retrofit can perform excellently when the existing frame is sound and installers properly seal, insulate, and flash per manufacturer instructions.

  • Daylight: Inserts usually reduce visible glass a bit; new construction can maintain or increase glass size.

  • Sound control: Similar story—mostly product-driven (laminated/IGU thickness), but perimeter air-sealing quality matters.


When Each Option Makes the Most Sense

Choose Retrofit if:

  • Your frames are solid and square with no moisture damage

  • You want to avoid exterior patching (stucco/brick/siding)

  • You’re keeping existing trim and general aesthetics

  • You want the quickest, most cost-effective refresh

Choose New Construction if:

  • You see rot, swelling, insect damage, or water intrusion

  • You’re changing sizes, adding sidelites/transoms, or moving openings

  • You’re already re-siding or re-stuccoing (walls open)

  • You want the best possible flashing/WRB integration


Arched Window
Arched Window

Code & Safety Considerations (Don’t Skip These)

  • Egress: Bedroom windows must meet emergency egress clear-opening rules. Don’t reduce an opening with an insert if it jeopardizes compliance.

  • Safety glazing: Tempered/laminated glass is required near doors, tubs/showers, and floor-level glazing in hazardous locations.

  • Energy codes: Most areas require NFRC-labeled products meeting local U-factor/SHGC targets.

  • Permits: Even like-for-like replacements can require permits, and size changes almost always do. Check your local building department before you start.

(Codes vary by jurisdiction; your contractor should verify local requirements and provide labeled products and compliant installs.)


Door-Specific Notes

  • Slab-only is the least invasive door upgrade, but inherits any issues in the existing jamb/threshold.

  • Prehung replacement solves many seal and alignment problems and is often the best value for exterior doors when the jamb is suspect.

  • Nail-fin doors allow full WRB integration—ideal in remodels or when reframing.

  • Always ensure sill pans/threshold flashing, proper hinge/strike reinforcement, and weatherstripping for air- and water-tightness.


Materials & Maintenance.

  • Vinyl windows: Affordable, low maintenance; great thermal performance; color options improving.

  • Fiberglass windows/doors: Stable, durable, paintable; strong thermal performance.

  • Wood or wood-clad: Warm aesthetics; needs maintenance; often premium price.

  • Aluminum (Thermally Broken): Sleek, strong sightlines; good for contemporary designs; check thermal specs.


Cost & Timeline Realities

  • Retrofit is generally less expensive per opening due to limited wall repairs and faster installation.

  • New construction costs more because of demo, reframing, exterior/interior repairs, and more complex flashing.

  • Actual pricing swings with size, material, glazing package, access, stucco/siding type, and finish carpentry—get line-item estimates and ask how wall repairs are handled.


A 2-Minute Decision Checklist

  1. Any signs of damage or leaks?

    • Yes → New construction / prehung (doors) or full-frame (windows).

    • No → Retrofit/insert often fine.

  2. Keeping the same sizes/locations?

    • Yes → Retrofit is likely the most efficient.

    • No → New construction.

  3. Are you re-siding/re-stuccoing anyway?

    • Yes → It’s the perfect time for new construction.

  4. Bedrooms or baths involved?

    • Verify egress and safety glazing before you choose.

  5. Aesthetic priorities?

    • Preserve trim/finishes → Retrofit.

    • Maximize glass/openings → New construction.


Final Thought

Both approaches can deliver excellent results when matched to the condition of your openings, your project scope, and local code requirements—and when installed by pros who follow manufacturer instructions for sealing and flashing. If you’re torn, have a qualified installer inspect your frames and provide side-by-side bids (including any wall repairs) so you can compare the true all-in cost and impact.

If you want, tell me a bit about your home’s exterior (stucco, siding, brick), the age of the openings, and whether you’re changing sizes—I can tailor a recommendation and a checklist you can hand to your installer.

 
 
 
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